Craft Beer: Defining the Future

James Watts, BrewDog

I completely agree with Martyn Cornell (author of blog, Zythophile) that there is an ambiguous motive behind James Watts' (BrewDog) and Greg Koch's (Stone Brewing Co.) desire for a Craft Beer definition. Is it really to protect the public or is it to protect their own sales? 

Greg Koch, Stone Brewing Co.

However, I personally think that Cornell's missed the entire point.

Some may see the condemnation of Big “Beers” as both personal vendetta and self-protection, but at the end of the day, the drinking public has been conned into drinking lagers and ales that can be considered synonymous to fizzy toilet cleaner. And why? For cost-effective profit generation.

For years, lager has been considered the beverage of choice due to lifestyle-led marketing tactics which have succeeded in differentiating brands which would otherwise be considered identical. With years of capital behind them, the big players have the financial stature to bombard consumers with propagandist multi-channel marketing materials for their corner-cutting beers. Product brand names such as Stella Artois, Foster’s and Carling subsequently acquire salience in the mind of the consumer, so when it comes to the Big Retailer’s stocking activities, only “heard of”/”popular” brands will occupy shelf space in the Beer, Wines and Spirits section. Combine that with aggressive promotions and point-of-sale marketing, and the consumer is left with very few options regarding their choice of beverage.

A fridge full of crap

These are tactics which may very well consume the Craft Beer market should a proper definition not be uniformly agreed upon. Julia Herz (The Brewing Association, USA) maintains that: “If the lines continue to get blurred and “craft” become commoditised, small and independent brewers will have a harder and harder time selling their products, getting shelf space, tap handles and placement on restaurant menus.”

This is how all stockists shelves should look

This is the same for “crafty” beer brands such as Blue Moon about which Tom Long (CEO, MillerCoors) opined: “whatever style of beer you prefer, all we ask is that you judge us by the quality of the beer in the glass”. Not only is this point of view a stolen Craft Beer proposition, but it is clearly being used to distract consumers from their “Artfully Crafted” marketing materials, a campaign run by the Integer Group, a marketing agency far from affordable by 98% (very rough estimate) of Craft Breweries.

Molson Coors duping the public

So this is where Cornell has demonstrated a very limited understanding of branding and business as a whole. Blue Moon could very well outsell 5am Saint on the store shelf, but that is NOT the point; its dilutive effect on the Craft Beer category as a whole is a substantially larger concern.

Additionally, I contend that any brewery who can afford to inject £millions into marketing campaigns, distribution, and who has gaschromatograph olfactory mass spectometry services (which still begs the question, why does Stella Artois taste like a rusty pipe) at its disposal, has an unfair advantage over brewers who have generated their own capital or sourced for it through less conventional means.

The destruction of  heritage and livelihoods

Albeit another "premium lager", but just look at what happened to Bluetongue in Australia – a brewery built from scratch in 2003, grown to be bigger than Cascade and then passed clumsily like a children’s Frisbee from multinational to multinational until it was phased into non-existence by SABMiller. There is nothing brand positive about being bought out by a bigger brewery. Rapid growth may work in the technology sector but it is misguided practice in the FMCG alcoholic beverages market. Once growth becomes too much for Goose Island’s Chicago based beverage practice, AB InBev will have its cost-cutting ways with it.

Soul sold

By protecting ourselves, we can ensure that our beloved category isn’t obscured by poor practices. Perhaps this is a mixture of “arrogance and paranoia”, but we’re battling so-called brewers who have reduced beer culture to obesity, alcoholism and Drunk & Disorderlies (see my post on Heineken’s “Drink Slow, Dance More” campaign).

Finally, this petty argument regarding whether Craft Beer is keg or cask is ridiculous; as long as the taste challenges the borders of acceptance, the ABV is not subdued for tax purposes and there are more hops and malts than a frog in a barley field, then I’m going to be one happy drinker. 

As for John Hall’s (Goose Island) justification that AB InBev and other multinationals paved the brewing footpath by supporting hop farmers, it doesn’t change the fact that they have smudged the good name of beer and that cannot be something easily forgotten or forgiven.

Steely Hops’ definition of Craft Beer:

1. Quality 

A) All beers must be experimental whether with traditional styles or something new

B) All beers must use natural ingredients with no adjuncts to reduce costs/flavour

2. Commitment to Craft 

A) The brewery must not be owned >20% by a brewery not considered “Craft”

B) The brewery must grow organically without acquisition of smaller breweries

C) The brewery must not extend into other categories of the drinks industry

3. Honesty

A) All ingredients are clearly listed on the particular beer’s label

B) The place where the beer is brewed is clearly listed

C) All the beer is brewed at a craft brewery or a craft brewer’s premises

Guinness: Give them a Stout

I enjoy reading MarketingWeek, but I’m not sure why, because whatever the marketing stunt is, it's always praised for its innovative ingenuity rather than reprimanded for its scrupulous attempts to dupe everyday people into purchasing poor quality products.

A recent example of this is the impending roll-out of Diageo’s “Guinness Plus” app, an effort intended to increase customer footfall in the on-trade sector. Once downloaded, users are “rewarded” with a pint of the jaw-numbing, flavour-free, cheaply produced beverage at selected bars, restaurants and pubs. The more often users “check in” to these selected outlets, the more chance they’ll have to win prizes – very similar to the Clubcard!

First, let me simply comment on this obvious bribery: Who in their right mind (especially in the UK) wouldn't download this cr-App and turn down a free pint? I can think of very few.

Second, with their recent promotion of face-to-face interactions at the bar, “Enjoy responsibly. Phones down, please.”, how could they possibly be in the position to promote this App? I thought they wanted to become the “mobile leader” of brewers, surely they shouldn’t be encouraging phone usage at a bar, however creative. 

This campaign will have such huge market coverage that, apart from further de-railing the good name of Stout, some non-Guinness drinkers will convert while the converted will further embrace their loyalty - yet another example of an enormous hypocritical “brewery” using their powerful position to increase their share of a pie that people are losing interest in.

The point is simple. Don’t download the App. 

The more we refuse to go along with their petty attempts at increasing market share, the more chance Craft Beer has in increasing the positive and dynamic effect it has on the Beer market. 

I have a better idea: download this App 
http://craftbeerlondon.bluecrowmedia.com/

Go and drink real Stout or Porter; a chocolate-raspberry infusion or a smoky coffee brew subtly laced with liquorice. These Beers traditionally undergo a second fermentation during which time they're naturally carbonated rather than pumped full of Nitrogen like Guinness. It has been said that the N2 (Nitrogen) was only added to Guinness in the first place to give it a "head", make it creamier and easier to drink! 

Drink a Stout because you enjoy the flavour, not because you've been bombarded with advertisements preaching to you the lifestyle benefits associated with drinking it. 

You’ll be astounded by what’s out there.

Christmas Brew Review

Winter is still upon us, the stresses of work have returned, and Christmas has long since passed. Nevertheless I see it as my duty to entertain you with my Christmas Brew Review, however belated.

Having said that, my three “carefully selected” Beers of choice took the form of a last minute Christmas Eve purchase from Tesco, approximately one hour before setting off down south to the in-laws. Due to this fact, none can be considered Craft, but then again Christmas is a time for tradition and the dearth of creativity.

So without further ado: 

3) Rocking Rudolph 

This was my first Beer on Christmas Day for the obvious fact that I wanted to get the worst out of the way. You’d be surprised, but the reason behind this was not because it’s a Greene King brand (hiding behind Hardy & Hanson), known for its watered-down old man ales and mutating IPA into a weak English Bitter, but actually due to its horrendously tacky and gimmicky Rudolph-come-Elvis-impersonator label.  

When poured it takes the appearance of a thick, rich, dark brown bodied ale with a satisfying bronzed Duvel-esque head. To me, the aroma had nothing much to it but the slight sweet odour of roasted barley. The taste itself wasn’t so much anti-climactic as it was expected; a sweet flavour of pale malt associated with Samuel Adams with a bitter roasted finish. 

I did notice that Rocking Rudolphski was on tap at one of my many locals and ended up ordering a couple of pints during the Spurs-United game. Like United’s performance, it was weak, bitter and failed to entertain.  

However, all in all, nothing particularly special nor Christmassy about it: 3/10 

2) Yule Love It 

I've got to be honest, considering Thwaites has been clawing away at UK ale market share for the best part of two centuries, I didn't hold much hope for its tritely punned Christmas Brew. The labelling, although charming, promises “A Magically Festive Brew”, so it didn't help much that its fizzy amber appearance looks identical to Fosters. Meanwhile, the nose itself was limited to extremely marginal sweetness owed to its small quantity of biscuit malt. Then the taste: tame caramel, barely noticeable on the tip of my tongue. 

However, and it's a big fuck off however, its forced carbonated nature illuminated my tastebuds by enhancing its floral-citrus aftertaste - very similar to the aftertaste of a Punk IPA. Its only saviour, but insufficient as a Yuletide gift. 

Surprisingly drinkable but overall fairly mediocre: 5/10 

1) Christmas Ale 

Shepherd Neame are another brewer who fall into that negligent category of "traditional real ale" manufacturers, so once again I was expecting something disappointing. Nevertheless, their classy labelling and 7% promise did peak my intrigue.

From the moment it started frothing in my glass in its golden-brown form, the aroma of Christmas pudding, ginger bread and forest fruit flooded my nostrils - and they welcomed it. Finally, a Beer I can look forward to tasting on Christmas Day!

And it didn't disappoint. The taste of festive spices and brandy soaked pudding dance tentatively on the tip of your tongue like an Elvish Geisha. It has an unfortunate hopless finish which greets you with a shallow aftertaste, but it wasn’t enough to put me off.

A warming wintery Christmas Ale I’d be happy to buy next December: 6.5/10

So that's my Festive Beer review, I hop you enjoyed it (it can't be Christmas without a horrifying pun). 

Follow us on Twitter and Facebook for latest news, views, updates and reviews!

Heineken's "Dance More, Drink Slow" Campaign: Honest Policy or Soulless Social Responsibility Stunt?

Equipped with the highly esteemed DJ Armin van Buuren, the first aim of Heineken's "Dance More, Drink Slow" campaign is to entice clubbers to “Dance More” and “Drink Slow”. Wow. But apart from that and the clear misrepresentation of an English adverb (a feat I was told off for a year ago with the same tagline during a presentation), it seems that they are quite obviously targeting the wrong crowd. For a target audience who listen to progressive Trance music, is it really excessive alcohol consumption which is brought to the top of your mind? No. Ecstasy, MDMA, Cocaine, Speed and whatever other club related Class A drug exists are only some of the Human Traffic (film) paraphernalia that spring to mind which enable the clubber to “Dance More”.

Additionally, for an organisation who has spent the last 100+ years championing poor beer standards through cheap production and heavy promotions, I’m left wondering whether they’re simply trying to reverse a trend which they heavily contributed towards in the first place. Boxes of 20 Foster’s cans are frequently available on promotion at an RRP of £12, and 10 John Smith’s cans are currently promoted at 2 for £17, rendering their actions contradictory. If you want people to “Drink Slow”, why offer them cheap booze?

So why target the clubbing scene? Does it not seem misguided? Not at all. If Heineken were to attempt to dissuade pub and bar drinkers (where most irresponsible drinkers spawn) from drinking Beer then they would lose a grand proportion of their on-trade business. In my view, this is a feeble attempt to grow on-trade sales by targeting a market whose eyes will be too dilated to distinguish a Heineken from a Stella Artois, while simultaneously demonstrating their commitment to "corporate social responsibility".

For someone who spent a year or two as a teenager, I have my fair share of stories to tell which could only have come about as a result of excessive drinking and, as I’ve mentioned before, I am not here to preach anything, in particular “Responsible Drinking”. But Beer is raising its status as a sophisticated alcoholic beverage, able to challenge whiskey in standing and knock wine off its pedestal. 

This brings me back to my focus on Taste. To enable people to drink Beer responsibly, flavour needs to be revolutionised and consumer passion for brands need to be enhanced. Can you imagine sitting around a table with a group of friends discussion which lager out of Stella Artois Black and Tyskie you prefer and why? Maybe you can, but I surmise that conversation would last no longer than thirty seconds: "Ooh it's particularly malty and a little yellower/fizzer".

Craft Beer is the future. Craft Beer enables conversations about various Porters with chocolate, coffee or liquorice notes, hoppy Pale Ales with hints of Honey and Golden Syrup, or IPAs with overriding tastes of mango, grapefruit or citrus fruit. Craft Beer enables discussions about Chocolate, Crystal or Caramel Malts, Goldings, Ahnatum or Nelson Sauvin Hops, or even whether natural or forced carbonation has enhanced or hindered taste.

Craft Beer also enables the drinker to spend more money on quality rather than less money on quantity. I believe this to be a critical step towards “Responsible Drinking” from the point of view of Beer manufacturers. We must educate through the palate and ensure that people understand that Beer is not a cheap watered down product which should be drunk for the purpose of "binging".

If this campaign is successful, Heineken will have an excuse to put a premium price on their crappy products, extend its lecherous pricing policy into other establishments, and give its brands the appearance of high quality.

Don’t let them do it, drink Craft.

Taste: Craft Beer

Pronunciation: /teɪst/

noun

1. the sensation of flavour perceived in the mouth and throat on contact with a substance
2. a person’s liking for particular flavours
3. the ability to discern what is of good quality or of a high aesthetic standard

http://www.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/english/taste?q=taste

To me, taste is the most essential sense when it comes to Beer. “Well…obviously” you’re probably saying, and you’re absolutely right, it is obvious. So why guzzle watered-down ales, cheaply produced branded lagers, or even beers with incredible aromas but when consumed leave an overpowering aftertaste of anti-climax?

Because they’re cheap or on promotion? Because they have a higher alcohol content? Because they have pretty packaging?

This may sound ironic being in marketing, and I apologise if I sound preachy, but I’m fed up with the vast amounts of fizzy yellow tasteless crap sold and marketed as Beer. The alcoholic drinks market is saturated and very competitive, so I wholeheartedly respect the marketing genius required by the big players to differentiate their brands. The only problem is: their brands are marketed as lifestyle choices rather than high quality tasty beverages. 

The closest we get to “taste” is when horrendous ciders are marketed as “refreshing” or Beers are marketed in cold-activated bottles as being tastier at a sub-zero temperature. Surely if you want something refreshing you should drink some water.

So why is this? Because all of their brands are cheaply produced and taste practically the same.

Several months ago, I told two Beer manufacturer Senior Sales Managers at an interview for a Placement that “Carling tastes like toilet water”. Needless it is to say that I wasn’t offered the position - apparently they didn’t appreciate my abuse of a competitor’s product. Well for one, I always thought honesty was the best policy, but it’s clear now that brownnosing is still the best route up the hierarchical ladder to success. And yes, that’s the Simcoe hand-jiving on your taste buds, not my bitterness…

I digress: I do realise that Carling holds the UK’s largest market share in not only the domestic lager category but the overall beer category, but does that say more about the quality of Coors’ branding activities or the sophistication of our nation’s palate. I’d argue both.

Taste is a unique phenomenon tailored to the individual. The problem I’ve found is that each domestic or “premium” lager or ale produced by the big players is cultivated to satisfy a broad range of tastes. These lagers and ales are then heavily advertised through various media, and then sold cheaply to pubs, bars, clubs and restaurants (on-trade), well-known retailers (off-trade) and wholesalers to enable them to make a profit. The better known the brand, the more shelf or fridge space that particular brand will occupy, consequently leaving very little opportunity for consumers to opt for a less “popular” brand.

So came the Craft Beer Revolution in the United States where hundreds of small and micro-breweries challenged the status quo of characterless Beer with a revamp of traditional styles and boundary pushing flavours. There are now approximately 2,500 craft breweries in the US, all working together to wrestle market share away from the domineering big players.

This is what incited the UK’s very own Craft Beer Revolution which has seen the import of US hops and the recreation of archived recipes. Over the last few months I have had the honour of tasting some of the most sensational tongue-teasing brews ranging from ridiculously fruity and floral IPAs to rich, indulgent Stouts.

“It doesn't taste like anything else. People who are willing to push themselves are going to get more out of it.” – Neil Taylor, Brewdog

The issue, as mentioned above, is where to find them?

The Big Four supermarkets (+ M&S) have a relatively eclectic range of ales on show, usually on promotion at 4 for £6, but I’m still yet to find many which can truly classify themselves as “Craft” (see my blog on Craft’s definition, coming soon). Brewdog’s Punk IPA, Dead Pony Club and 5am Saint can usually be found in a Tesco or Sainsbury’s, while Goose Island IPA and 312 are available in most. The former’s brands are only really available because their marketing activities and growth could not be ignored, while the latter sold themselves into AB InBev slavery in a bid to acquire greater shelf and fridge visibility.

There are specialist beer retailers such as the Beer Boutique, Utobeer, Craft Beer Company and Drink of Fulham, and those with an online presence such as Beer Hawk, Beer Ritz, and other less specialist retailers with an extensive Beer range. However, due to their specialist nature there are usually price premiums placed on their products e.g. a bottle of Dead Pony Club will retail at £1.89 at Sainsbury’s but RRP at £2.50 at Beer Boutique.

My advice is to go directly to the breweries.

Partizan and The Kernel both have their breweries and brewery shops available to the public in East London from 11am-5pm and 9am-3pm respectively, while Sambrook’s in Battersea and By The Horns in Wandsworth are open every day but Sunday. Meantime meanwhile have online shopping, but you’ll find a host of their Beers in Well’s pubs across the City.

Other breweries have their comprehensive portfolios of beers available in their own bars and restaurants such as Zero Degrees, who have their enormous vats put into their restaurants, one of which is located in Blackheath or Beavertown’s Duke’s Brew & Que located in Hackney or CamdenTown’s Brewery Bar which teams up with an assortment of street food vendors. Not to mention Brewdog’s excellent bars in Shepherd’s Bush and Camden.

The point is that the Craft Beer landscape is exciting; there’s much more depth to it than our traditional gastro pubs and those cheap watered down ales and lagers we’ve been lulled into liking.

“There is such an incredible variety that if you think you don’t like beer, you just haven’t found the right one yet.” – Peter Brown, Shortlist

Drop the crap. Embrace Craft.